Stop Dog Barking

It is usual to give new dogs a lot of attention when we first get them but this can lead to trouble. By spoiling a dog and giving them love and attention whenever they desire it you are setting yourself up for a barking dog. Boredom is the most common cause of barking in a dog and preventing your dog from becoming bored is the only real way to stop this from happening. It is most common for bored dogs to bark while you are not around, but it shouldn’t be too long before your neighbors tell you about your dog’s disruptive behavior.

The worst thing you can do if a dog has already learnt that barking gets attention is to keep giving him attention. If your dog barks because he is hungry and you quickly jump up to feed him to shut him up then he will learn that barking means he gets fed. Similarly, if your dog barks to be let in and you do so every time then he will learn that barking gets him let in. This doesn’t mean you should shout either; the best way to stop dog barking in these circumstances is to ignore him. To a bored dog, being yelled offers more in the way of entertainment than being ignored.

One method that usually takes only two or three days to work will require you to be present when they are barking but is simple, quick and effective; not to mention quite pleasing when you’ve been woken up at 4 am. Have a small cup of water ready and if your dog barks take the water and stand near him. It is essential that you wait for him to bark again, but when he does then throw the water in his face. You may need to do this once or twice for the first two nights and if you have particularly difficult case maybe even on the third night but it is very unlikely you will have to do it again.

If you have a dog that is barking, growling and showing it’s teeth then it is not bored but it is scared or anxious and may be liable to bite. In this case do not throw water in its face because this will inevitably lead to a bloody hand and an upset dog and owner. The vet or animal psychologist is the only solution in this instance.

Saint Bernard

The Saint Bernard is the big, loveable lump of the canine fraternity. He is the friendly giant who wants to help out whenever he can. Of course, he is also much more than that as you will discover. Seeing a female saint Bernard with her young pups eclipses most sights in nature. Never will there be another dog quite like the Saint Bernard and his fame as a fearless search and rescue dog goes before him. He is a hardy old breed of dog who has become very comfortable in his own skin.

Essential Characteristics

The Saint Bernard is classified as a working dog.

  • Weight varies considerably. A smaller example may weigh under 110 lbs while big daddies can top 200 lbs.
  • Markings tend to be white with red areas or red (possibly brindle) with white. St. Bernards often display a dark mask. The breed has two distinctive coats, the one short-haired and the other long-haired. Both varieties will shed hair copiously. Their thick coat is water resistant.
  • Males grow to around 26-28 inches, with the female being just a touch smaller.

A Saint Bernard’s Nature

  • Saint Bernards are incredibly affectionate and utterly loyal. This tends to negate their advantages of weight and size in terms of handling; they are usually very willing to please. (Please note, though, any large dog may become a handful for owners of small stature if the dog has not been trained thoroughly when young.) These bodily well muscled and bulky fellows are extremely sharp mentally but normally just want to chill out. That said, Saint Bernards are exceptional guard dogs and very protective.
     
  • Regardless of their size, they are superb with children. Sure, sometimes they like to get their own way but they will ultimately go with the flow. However, be warned. In return for their incredible fidelity, Saint Bernards demand a high level of attention and affection. They are very much people’s dog and will become very insecure without their love.

Exercise

  • Saint Bernards need only a moderate amount of exercise. A gentle walk once or twice a day should normally suffice. As with most dogs, a yard for general meandering is preferable, although if you are prepared to walk them often enough, they do make for great apartment pets.
     

Maintenance

  • The most important thing to note about Saint Bernards, as far as looking after them is concerned, is that they abhor heat. So, if you want a Saint Bernard, make absolutely sure that you will be able to provide him with cool retreat that’s accessible to him at any time he needs it.
     
  • Saint Bernards shed hair biannually and it is bountiful. The obvious solution when they are shedding is to groom them once or twice a day with a stiff brush; combs work well but are a lot more time-consuming.
  • Try to keep washing and shampooing to an absolute minimum to reduce their risk of a skin disorder. Watch out for problems around their eyes and ears and clean both as necessary.
     

Training

  • Try to train them early and make sure they have plenty of contact with you and other members of the family and other pets.
     
  • In spite of their enormous intellects, Saint Bernards are usually only prepared to go so far when it’s a question of learning ‘tricks’. They will happily be obedient in the basics and should present no problems with walking, sitting etc. but they are generally not too interested in being told what to do beyond that.
     

Summary

  • A beautifully wistful looking creature, a Saint Bernard endears himself to all and makes an ideal family pet. However, in spite of his apparent nonchalance which seems to say ‘let tomorrow worry about tomorrow’, he is in fact extremely concerned about his security if not given sufficient attention. It is good advice to only get a Saint Bernard if you have sufficient time and energy to invest in him. If you

The Truth About Puppy Mills And What To Avoid

An individual or family looking to add a new puppy to their home should be aware of the puppy mill industry. With so many consumers in the market for pets, some individuals have jumped into the business of breeding dogs for greed. They usually are not pet lovers, themselves. So, what is the typical life history of one of these pets that you may purchase at a pet store, via the Internet, or simply out of the classifieds? It will shock you.

Most puppy mills will usually consist of anywhere from 60 plus animals. There have been some larger documented puppy mills that have housed upwards of a thousand dogs. The dogs are typically fed once daily, sometimes twice, if they are lucky. The waste is usually cleaned up once a week. The dogs are usually housed in either cement floored cages, or in a rabbit style cage with a wire bottom where the faeces and urine stacks up. Most of these housing areas are very small, and the dogs have to sit and sleep in their own faecal matter. The puppies that are stuck in the wire bottom cages sometimes have their paws and legs get stuck through the holes. This can rip open the flesh, and the germs and faecal matter that has collected on the wire infects the wound. Most puppies that become ill are simply killed. Vermin such as rats, mice, fleas, ticks, worms, and flies are prevalent in these puppy mills.

With such a large quantity of animals it is impossible to handle the animals, comfort them or socialize them with the human touch. They are just considered noisy and smelly products.

So where do all these dogs come from at the puppy mill? A few selected females are singled out as the breeders. They will stay at the puppy mills until they are dead. These poor animals spend their life mating and delivering. When their insides have broken down due to malnutrition and overwork and they no longer are viable to the mill, they are simply killed and another breeder is put in its place. It is not uncommon for disease and inbreeding to occur at these mills. If you have purchased a dog that just seems like it has no sense, or is ill, it is not the dogs fault. It was probably inbreed. The dog’s papers may say they are purebred, but truly these papers only list the father and mother, and not the history of each.

When it’s time to ship these dogs out for sale, the clean up process begins. They are usually wormed a few days prior to their departure. They are bathed close to the time of sale. They are sprayed with odour fighting sprays to disguise any stench. If their eyes are runny, or pussy, they are wiped cleaned and sent on their way.

Where do these puppy’s go? Your local pet store, and other animal outlet centers. Where else would they get their inventory? It is reported that pet stores sell approximately half a million animals per year. These animals aren’t coming from the loving pet owner who just had a litter.

There are laws to protect the consumer who has found themselves with a sick puppy. It is hoped that these laws will force the industry to take better care of the animals they breed, and that the pet store owners are more particular about the animals they stock. You can find a pure breed dog at your local animal shelter. It is strongly recommended that you start your search for a new pet there and boycott the pet chains.

Your Puppy and Hygiene

Summary: Hygiene is essential to your puppy’s physical and psychological well being. This article gives tips and tricks on how to keep your puppy clean and disease free.

As with humans, hygiene is an important aspect of your puppy’s health. Grooming and cleaning is important for your puppy’s appearance and to keep him disease free. It also contributes to his overall well-being, both physical and psychological.

Cleanliness allows us to bond with our pets, which aids us in maintaining good health. Research has proven that petting our pets can help to reduce high blood pressure and give us a more cheerful outlook on life.

Pet hygiene is complicated at times. It’s more than brushing your puppy on a daily basis. In fact, it is caring for him from the point of his cute little nose to the tip of his tail. Hygiene is an important aspect of your puppy’s life and it’s up to you, his owner, to assure that he is well taken care of.

When you brush your puppy, use a wide toothed comb and brush from head to tail. Keep you eyes open for signs of fleas, ticks, growths and mats. A wide toothed comb will minimize hair pulling and your puppy will learn to love the time that you spend tending to his coat. Follow the wide toothed comb with a wire brush that’s manufactured for dog grooming. These can be purchased at most pet supply stores.

Mats may be able to be removed by separating them from the other fur and gently splitting them to make them smaller. Then, hold the fur close to the skin and gently pull the hair through the teeth of the wide toothed comb. Never cut out mats in case of cutting into your puppy’s skin.

If you are concerned that your puppy might get fleas, purchase a flea comb. These help you to loosen fleas and flea dirt from your puppy’s skin and let you know if your puppy does indeed have fleas. If he does, pick as many fleas off as possible, killing them. Then, use flea powder daily to control infestation. You might want to take your puppy to the vet for a professional flea treatment, or purchase one that can be used at home.

Be sure to examine your puppy’s teeth on a regular basis. There should be no tartar build up, and the gums should be a healthy pink. You should brush your puppy’s teeth on a daily basis, just as you would your own. Ask your vet to recommend a canine tooth paste. Your toothpaste can upset your puppy’s stomach.

Shampooing your puppy’s coat and giving him regular baths will keep him in good spirits. Dirt can cause itching and inflammation of skin. Be careful not to get soap into your puppy’s eyes. It can cause irritation. Never use your shampoo to bathe your dog. It can cause your puppy’s skin to be dry, which will cause inflammation and scratching, as well as make the fur of his coat dry. Ask your vet to recommend a puppy shampoo.

Puppy’s ears should be cleaned when needed. This is part of canine hygiene. Excessive or daily cleaning is not needed or recommended. Examine your puppy’s ears regularly and if there is excessive hair or wax build up, add a bit of mineral oil, wrap a soft cloth around your finger and clean the ear. Never use cotton swabs to clean your puppy’s ears. It is easy for your puppy to wiggle or squirm, which will end in your damaging his ear drum.

If your puppy gets burrs in his coat, get him to lie down, and using a wide toothed comb, hold the hair next to the skin and gently pull the comb upward to remove. Tar and engine oil can be removed by soaking the hair or paw in mineral oil and soaking it up with a paper towel or a clean rag. If puppy gets chewing gum in his fur, hold a piece of ice on it to freeze it and then break it out. Never cut your puppy’s fur to remove anything that it has in it.

If you follow the tips in this article, your puppy and you will form a strong bond. Bath and grooming time will be a time you both look forward to. Always talk to your puppy in a calm, soothing voice when you are performing his bath and grooming needs. This gives him a secure feeling.

Feeding Fido: How to Properly Feed Your New Puppy

Summary: A comphrensive guide for the new puppy owner on how to properly feed a new puppy and best methods to do so. Article focuses on types of puppy food avaliable and the benefits of controlled and free feeding.

How and what you are going to feed your new puppy is one of the most important decisions in caring for your new four legged friend. There are many choices to make in buying dog food and the size and breed of your dog actually makes a difference.

The ingredients in dog food vary amongst brands. It really is a case of “you get what you pay for”. Many of the less expensive brands contain fillers, which are by products of animals and corn meal, which reeks havoc on your dog’s digestive system, thus producing more volume of stool for your pup. You must also consider the size of the breed. If you have a small lap dog, remember his mouth and teeth are really small and you will need to feed a chow that has small bits. This will make chewing and digesting much easier. Larger puppies, which are naturally bigger due to breed, can chew the larger kibble with ease.

Many dog food companies produce foods that are size specific, usually in small, medium and large breeds. The ingredients are all the same, however large breed formulas have a smaller percentage of calcium. It’s the size of the kibble that sets these variations apart. It is highly suggested by veterinarians to purchase this type of kibble as puppies, whichever formula coincides with the breed size.

Please remember though that every puppy needs puppy chow, not adult food. Puppy chow contains a higher percentage of much needed protein that all pups need regardless of size. It is recommended that puppy food contain no less than 26% protein content.

Now that you have chosen food for Fido, you need to decide whether to free feed him or control feed. Free feeding is a method in which you allow your dog to eat as he pleases by allowing him to have constant access to the food bowl. Controlled feeding is a method in which you control how much and when your puppy eats and he does not have access to the food bowl.

To free feed your pup, you fill his bowl and he decides when he wants to eat. Although this is very convenient for the owner, the cons outweigh the pros when it comes to puppies. Free feeding does not allow you to know exactly how much your pet has consumed. It is also difficult to tell if your pup has a loss of appetite as well. Loss of appetite is a symptom for many serious ailments for dogs. It is also very difficult to housebreak your puppy this way. You will find your pup having a lot of accidents, ultimately creating stress for you. Another important point is that most of overweight puppies are free fed and it is never healthy for a puppy to carry extra weight.

Controlled feeding is the preferred method by vets. You know exactly how much your pup is consuming and when. It is recommended that puppies are fed 3 times a day until he reaches 6 months of age. Housetraining is made simple by controlled feeding. 15-30 minutes after eating, take your pup out to “do his duty” and its as simple as that.

Before You Bring Home Your Puppy: What You Will Need

Have you arranged for a new puppy from a breeder? Is the time drawing near for you to pick him up? When your new arrival comes through the door, your life will be changed forever.

You will have a devoted pet that will follow you around the house and become a big part of your life. Before you bring him home, there are a few things that you will need to be fully prepared for presence. This list will ensure that you have everything you need to cope with your new friend.

  • A collar, leash, dog tags and a gentle leader.
     
  • Canned and dry puppy food.
     
  • Treats for training. Cheese and apple bits might also be used.
     
  • Water and bowl.
     
  • Dog bed.
     
  • Dog brush, comb, shampoo, nail clippers, canine toothbrush and ear cleaner.
     
  • Chew toys, hard rubber ball, stuffed toy, gong, mylaflex bone.
     
  • Crate, washable blankets and a baby gate to keep the dog confined to certain rooms.
     
  • White vinegar, canine spot remover, odor remover and a good lint brush to remove dog fur from your clothes and furniture.
     
  • Canine first aid supplies, training book, and breed information.
     
  • Bitter apple to deter inappropriate chewing.
     
  • First Aid Supplies for Puppy
     
  • Though you plan on taking good care of you new puppy, sometimes accidents occur. You will need a puppy first aid kit. Make one using an old fishing tackle box or a small tote. Here is a list of supplies that you will need to add to the kit.
     
  • Phone number of you veterinarian. If possible, include his home phone number or that of the vet that will be on call after hours.

  • Phone number for a local poison control center, or the one for the National Animal Poison Center. Check to find phone number for the one in your country. If you have trouble obtaining the number, ask you vet and he will give it to you.
     
  • Water soluble lubricating jelly
     
  • The following bandaging tools: gauze, adhesive tape, canine antiseptic spray or swabs, adhesive bandages, sterile wound dressings and a roller bandage.
     
  • Cortisone cream.
     
  • Rectal thermometer.
     
  • Tweezers and blunt end scissors.
     
  • Diarrhea medication.
     
  • Hydrogen Peroxide, 3%. This will induce vomiting if you puppy ingests something that is poison.
     
  • Children’s antihistamine tablets or liquid.
     
  • Activated charcoal powder. This also induces vomiting if you puppy is poisoned. Ask you veterinarian about dosage.
     
  • A portable dog carrier containing a blanket, a muzzle, clean bottled water. This must be stored in a cool, dry place. It is most useful if you have to take your puppy to the vet in an emergency situation.
     
  • Benedryl for allergic reactions to bee stings and other allergic reactions.
     

It pays to start early with Puppy Obedience training. Don’t establish bad habits, which will be hard to break latter.

You and Your Dog: Living in Harmony

Summary This article will teach you how to live in harmony with your dog. It covers, “Learning Your Dog’s Body Language,” “Obedience Train Your Dog,” “Research the Breed,” “Leash Laws,” “Socializing,” and more.

Are you new to dog ownership? Have you owned dogs previously but are having problems or a personality conflict with your present dog? If so, you aren’t alone. The tips in this article will give you a better understanding of how to live in harmony with your dog.

Learn Your Dog’s Body Language

Get to know your dog, just as you’d learn to know a new friend. Spend time with him. Play with him. This will allow you to anticipate and prevent aggression toward other dogs and people. Pay special attention to behavior changes as your dog ages, particularly any shift from dog friendly to dog aggressive.

Obedience Train Your Dog

Taking part in obedience training will allow you to keep your dog under control in all circumstances. Remember, just because your dog graduates, he doesn’t know it all, nor neither do you. You must continue training throughout your dog’s life. He must be continually reminded that you are the leader of the “pack,” and always the one in control. Your dog will test his boundaries, so be prepared. Always be consistent in what you expect of him. You can’t allow him to lie on the sofa one day and to stay off it the next. He is either allowed on the sofa, or he is not. There’s no in between. He must know the rules or he cannot be expected to obey them.

Research Your Dog’s Breed

Learn the history of your dog’s breed and why the original breed was developed. For instance, Alaskan malamutes were originally bred as working dogs. They hauled loads and pulled dog sleds. Some breeds were developed for search and rescue, like the Saint Bernard. German Shepherds were bred as guard dogs. Pit bulls were bred for dog fights. Whatever the breed of your dog, his breed was originally developed for a purpose.

How to Break up a Dog Fight

If the unthinkable should happen and you have to break up a dog fight, remain calm and prepare to break it up swiftly and safely for the benefit of both the dogs and yourself. It’s easy to be bitten attempting to break up two snarling, biting dogs. It is wise to carry parting stick if you will be walking in an area where dogs run off leash.

Surroundings

When you are walking or hiking with your dog, pay special attention to your surroundings. Then, balance your dog’s needs with the needs of those around you whether they are humans or other canines. This means using the pooper scooper, keeping your dog in hand so he won’t jump up when greeted by people and avoiding aggressive dogs that are not on a lead.

Be Brave

Develop a thick skin. There will be times when people will make rude comments about your dog. Ignore them. They may be intoxicated or itching for a fight. Some people make remarks about dogs to push the owner into an argument. Once that happens, they will become aggressive toward you. Move on and try to avoid these people in the future.

People and Your Dog

Try to understand that not everyone in the world loves dogs. Some people have had bad experiences. Others are deathly afraid of specific breeds, or even all breeds. Assure them your dog is friendly (if he is) and invite them to interact. If they decline, that’s fine, but sometimes, especially if they think your dog is beautiful, you can help them to overcome their fears.

Aggression Toward Humans

Any sign of aggression toward humans is cause for great concern. Reprimand immediately. Aggression of this type is comparative to waving a red flag in front of a bull. Make an appointment for you and your dog to consult with a “breed experienced” professional dog behaviorist or trainer.

Exercise

Exercise your dog daily to allow him to get rid of pent up energy. A brisk walk twice a day usually keeps a dog well within his limits. Today, many cities have fenced-in dog parks where your dog can run, play and socialize off leash.

Leash Laws

Some laws were made to be broken, but not this one. Always respect and obey the leash laws in your community. This can save you a hefty fine. Leash laws are made to protect you, your dog, and the general public.

Socializing

Take your dog out into your community and let him interact with humans while he’s still a puppy. Let him play with kids; introduce him to seniors and people of different cultures. Teach him to love everyone that will offer him a kind word or give him a pat on the head.

Be sure to introduce your dog to a wide variety of canine breeds. Make friends with dogs in our neighborhood or at the local dog park. Obedience school is a way to meet other dogs and their owners. Dogs should be supervised by their owners at all times, to ensure that play never turns to aggression. Separate the dogs if they can’t be watched at all times. Everyone, including humans benefit from supervised socialization. If your dog becomes aggressive, leash him and let him mingle under your control. He will soon learn that he can only be off leash if he displays the appropriate behavior.

Neuter/Spay

Neuter or spay your dog to curb territorial aggression. This also prevents litters of unwanted pups and helps to prevent your dog from roaming the neighbourhood. All breeds of dogs are more passive once they are neutered or spayed and it makes life much easier for the owner, who happens to be you. Having a dog is a life long commitment. Dogs are living, breathing creatures that have feelings, not a toy that can be tossed into a corner and forgotten. Yes, dogs are a lot of work and a lot of responsibility, but you will reap more than your fair share of rewards in the love, affection, loyalty, devotion and companionship that your dog will provide in return.

Your Puppy’s Shots: What they are and the diseases they protect him from

A short summary: This articles explains why your puppy needs his shots and the diseases they protect him from. Included are distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, coronavirus and more.

You’ve brought your puppy home and the breeder has given you a card that is stamped by a local vet, stating what shots your puppy has already had and when he needs to have others in the series. You know how expensive vaccinations are and contemplate skipping them. Don’t! If you puppy doesn’t get his booster shots, he is very susceptible to a number of diseases.

The reason your puppy needs shots is that he loses the protective antibodies that came from his mother when he is between six and sixteen months old. At this time, if he has not developed a strong immune system, your puppy will be susceptible to a wide range of disease. Shots for distemper and parvovirus protect him from contacting a potentially fatal disease.

Keep your puppy away from sick or stray dogs and wildlife until he is at least five months old. Do not board him or take him to places where other dogs are found until he is fully protected. Your vet will be glad to tell you exactly when your puppy is ready to socialize with other canines.

The term “distemper shot,” can be very misleading. This shot is not just for distemper, but for a host of diseases. If you hear your vet mention “DHLAPPC” shot, this is the one he’s talking about. Let me explain how this shot protects your puppy and what diseases are included.

Distemper

This is a highly contagious disease that could attack your puppy’s brain, lungs and spinal cord. It is somewhat similar to polio in humans.

Adenovirus Type 2

This is also known as Cav – 2 and is a virus that causes respiratory problems. Symptoms are severe coughing and the disease can appear in puppies and dogs of all ages.

Hepatitis

Infectious canine hepatitis, also known as ICH, is caused when your puppy comes into contact with infected urine. It causes liver damage and blindness. Never let you puppy smell or lick where another dog has urinated.

Parainfluenza

This disease also attacks the respiratory system and causes your puppy to develop a cough.

Leptospirosis

This part of the distemper shot can cause puppies to experience severe side effects. It can damage the liver and kidneys. Being a rare disease, only two of your puppy’s booster shots will contain this virus.

Coronavirus

Also known as CCV, this disease resembles parvovirus. It attacks the intestines and causes your puppy to suffer from severe diarrhea. The vaccine is expensive and since coroavirus is so rare, vets sometimes omit if from the shot. If your vet does this, the shot can be given separately.

Parvovirus

Canine parvovirus is also known as CPV. It strikes young puppies, attacking the intestines and damaging the heart. It is the single most fatal disease to puppies and is the hardest to protect them from. The most susceptible breeds of dogs to his disease are boxers, bulldogs, Dobermans and Rottweilers. If your puppy is one of these breeds, be sure to ask your vet how to protect him from contacting the disease.

Rabies

Rabies is spread either by an infected animal’s bite, or the saliva of an infected animal making its way into your puppy’s bloodstream. Yes, your puppy can contact rabies and the disease is always fatal. Never miss your puppy’s rabies shot. If he gets rabies he can easily pass them on to you as well as any other humans he comes into contact with.

When your puppy is four months old he will need a rabies shot. A year later he will need a booster; then every year to three years for the rest of his life, depending on what type of shot your vet gave him and the laws in your community.

If your puppy doesn’t have his rabies shot and he comes into contact with a skunk, he has to be either quarantined or euthanised. Vaccinated puppies that come into contact with skunks should have an addition booster immediately.

Bordetella

Bordetella is a severe respiratory ailment that causes kennel cough. If you plan on taking your puppy to be professionally groomed, or if you plan on boarding him, be sure he as a shot. To be affective, it has to be given at least a month before your puppy arrives at the kennel. This will protect him from contacting Bordetella during his stay.

For your puppy’s protection and optimum health, it is imperative that you ensure all of his shots are kept current. His loyalty, love and companionship are worth a lot more than the expense of his shots.

Puppy Stages

Unlike some animals, puppies are born not able to see or hear, and totally dependent on their mother for care and feeding. By the time they are old enough to find new home however, they are able to eat solid foods, and of course, see and hear. The change does not occur over night however. It takes six to seven weeks to accomplish this amazing change.

When the puppies are born, they enter the world with their eyes and ears closed, as these have not fully developed yet. They cannot walk, but instead scoot, pulling themselves along with their legs, much as a baby does before it learns to crawl. They are incapable of regulating their body temperature, so they must be kept warm. This is why a litter of puppies piles on top of each other the first few weeks of life. They recognize their mother by her scent, and by her touch as she cleans them. When the mother returns to the whelping box after she has been given a chance to relieve herself outside, you will see the puppies scrambling towards her for their meal when she stretches out for them. While the puppies nurse, she will clean each of them.

Typically, around a week and a half to two weeks of age, the puppies’ eyes will gradually start to crack open, over a period of days. Their ears will follow shortly thereafter. By two and a half weeks of age, the puppies are generally capable of seeing fuzzy movement and hearing the whines and whimpers of their mother. Around three weeks, the puppies will start to toddle more, as well as gain conscious control of their tail movement. They will quickly learn to recognize the sound of your voice as you approach, and those cute little puppy tails will start wagging as soon as they hear you coming. This is the time when they will start playing with their littermates. This is also the time when moistened puppy food can be introduced to the puppies.

By four weeks of age, the puppies are walking very well. Their eyes are fully open, as well as their ears. The only time they are not playing and trotting about is when they are sleeping, and they take frequent naps throughout puppyhood. Sleep, as with all babies, is an important aspect of their growth. From four to six weeks of age, the puppies continue to play, sleep, eat, and grow. By six weeks of age, they should be nearly, if not completely weaned from their mother’s milk, and eating solid foods.They will need their first “puppy” shot now, which protects against common canine diseases. Up until this point, their mother has shared her antibodies and immunity with them, but as they have been weaned, the immunity has decreased. By seven to eight weeks of age, the puppies are ready for new homes. No longer are they totally dependent on their mother. The responsibility is given to their new family, because, while able to eat solid foods, they still depend on humans to provide that food.

The stages of growth do not stop at eight weeks. From a tiny, defenceless life, unable to do anything besides drink and sleep at birth, to a bouncing, playful pup just two short months later – it is a process a responsible breeder finds joy in every time, no matter how many litters have been raised before.

Your Puppy: Teaching Confidence, Respect and Trust

You’ve brought a new puppy into your home. He’s cute and cuddly. His huge beautiful eyes melt your heart each time he looks at you.

It’s nice to know that your care so much about your puppy and that he seems to adore you. He needs a lot of TLC to grow, both physically and mentally. Play with him, cuddle him and love him. Show him lots of affection. However, be cautious. Affection must be tempered with respect.

Don’t let those beautiful brown eyes (or blue, green or gold) con you into giving in to your puppy’s every whim. If you let him away with too much, he will not learn discipline and self-control, nor will he learn to respect you. He will be out of control and you will have big trouble on your hands. Remember, he is not always going to be a puppy.

Your puppy needs to know his place in the pecking order of the pack. In your family, your puppy should be at the bottom of the pecking order. You and other adults should be the leaders of the pack. Children should come next, and at the bottom are your puppy and any other animals that live in your home. If you don’t take the role of leader, your puppy will. This will cause him to grow into a disobedient and aggressive dog.

Most dogs who are given their own way when they are puppies end up living along tied to a chain in the backyard. This makes them more aggressive and they will probably end up being put down, or being handed over to the local animal shelter. No one wants a disobedient and aggressive dog, so the animal shelter will eventually be forced to euthanize him. If you don’t want this type of unhappy ending to be a part of your puppy’s life, take the initiative and control your puppy now.

Taking control of your puppy doesn’t mean mistreating him. Give him lots of affection, play with him and bond with him. Also be consistent and make him obey simple commands.

Never bully or terrorize your puppy into submitting to your demands. This will backfire and you will find that your adorable puppy has grown into a full size aggressive monster that no one can control. A puppy that is treated this way will bite; and he will bite you or anyone else that crosses him.

If you respect and love your puppy, he will learn to love and respect you in return. Respect is won, not demanded, and your puppy will not respect you until he learns you are to be trusted.

Be consistent. If you set down rules for your puppy, never change them. Never yell or shout at him. If he disobeys or displays inappropriate behavior, give him a firm, “No!” and correct him. Continue training until your puppy understands exactly what is expected of him. When he obeys, pet him, give him a small treat and praise him verbally. Something as simple as “good boy,” gets the message across.

If you spend time training your puppy every day and give him firm and gentle coaching, it will build his trust. Following directly behind will be love, confidence and respect. This will bring about a firm bond that will ensure a wonderful relationship with your puppy into adulthood and beyond.